First, let's start with the name. "Bubble Tea" (珍珠奶茶 - Zhēnzhū Nǎichá) reflects the three important components of this drink: "Pearls" (珍珠) – actually referring to tapioca starch balls processed in food factories; "Milk" (奶) – usually creamer or fresh milk, creating different thicknesses depending on the fat content; and "Tea" (茶) – mostly black tea, green tea, or oolong tea, offering different flavors based on fermentation level and processing methods. Additionally, another extremely important element is sugar.
This guide primarily provides information for anyone interested in bubble tea. Based on the author's past experiences, it explains the processes of production, preparation, and mixing from a scientific perspective, enabling readers to accurately learn the correct methods and break through common misconceptions, understanding this subject from a completely new angle. Furthermore, this book will also incorporate information about raw material suppliers and various equipment introductions, allowing you to easily obtain raw material information. Unlike typical recipes, through the content of this book, we will learn to stably control ingredients and flavors, and increase the potential for innovation.
『What should go here, a Slogan?』
The origin of bubble tea can be traced back to Taiwan in the 1980s, when beverage shops began combining milk tea and tapioca balls (粉圓 - fěnyuán) to enhance the drink's texture and visual appeal, creating this unique beverage. Within just a few years, bubble tea became immensely popular in Taiwan and gradually spread worldwide. Whether in other parts of Asia, or in Europe, America, and Australia, its presence can be seen everywhere.
However, the charm of bubble tea far exceeds its nature as just a sweet drink. Bubble tea is not only a beverage; it is more of a cultural phenomenon, symbolizing Taiwan's innovative spirit and food culture. Its emergence broke the norms of traditional tea beverages, showing people the diverse innovative possibilities for tea drinks. Bubble tea has become a representative cultural symbol of Taiwan, gaining recognition globally and deeply loved by enthusiasts of all ages.
In this text, we will explore various aspects of bubble tea, from its history, production process, and ingredients, to various flavor variations, and how it has influenced and changed our food culture. Let us unveil the mystery of this sweet treasure together and delve deep into the world of bubble tea.
The content of this text is based on various reference materials and shared experiences. Scan the QR code to watch video explanations.


Firstly, the main ingredient of pearls is tapioca starch (樹薯澱粉), one among many types of starch, slightly different from sweet potato starch (地瓜粉) or potato starch (太白粉).
Below is a discussion of the differences in product Hardness, Springiness, Gumminess, and Chewiness after heating for different starches (Reference: [Reference citation missing in original]):
| Formula | Hardness (g) | Springiness | Gumminess (g) | Chewiness (g) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tapioca starch 100% | 122.6±4.0c | 1.00±0.02a | 94.5±1.9c | 94.3±1.8c |
| Sweet potato starch 100% | 174.8±12.3b | 0.97±0.03a | 132.0±11.7b | 127.9±13.3b |
| Potato starch 100% | 236.4±12.9a | 0.97±0.03a | 162.0±6.2a | 157.8±7.3a |
| Values are mean±SD, n=5 Different letters(a-c) in the same column indicate significant difference (p<0.05) | ||||
Samples made with potato starch had the highest hardness, valued at 236.4g, followed by sweet potato starch (174.8g), with tapioca starch being the lowest (122.6g). There was no significant difference in springiness among the starches (p>0.05). Gumminess and chewiness tests also showed potato starch was the highest, followed by sweet potato starch, and the lowest was tapioca starch.
Additionally, all starches still possess common starch properties, such as: starch can break down (disperse) in cold water, thickens upon heating, hardens when cold, softens when hot, etc. These physical characteristics are closely related to the production process, and it is essential to memorize these properties to control stability.
This is a difficult question, and many people will likely provide varied answers. The same question can be applied to ramen: If the question were changed to "What is the purpose of cooking noodles?", I believe more people could provide a correct and complete explanation.
There are many types of nutrients: protein, fat, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, water, etc. In the process of cooking, we transform food into the state we desire. For example, searing a steak not only enhances flavor but also uses high temperature to kill bacteria and parasites. Simultaneously, the temperature causes protein denaturation (like frying an egg), resulting in different textures and colors, making it easier for the human body to absorb. Protein grading and changes at various temperatures have corresponding experiments and literature explanations, which will not be elaborated here.
Returning to pearls, pearls are a type of starch, just like noodles or rice. Therefore, we can understand the purpose of cooking pearls from our daily experiences of cooking rice and noodles. When cooking rice, the grains start absorbing water, their volume expands, and density increases. Increased density causes them to sink (sinking followed by heating leads to scorching, which also applies to pearls). The more water absorbed, the softer the rice becomes. If too much water is absorbed, the rice turns into congee. So, when cooking starchy foods, it's essentially about cooking with water and allowing the starch to absorb sufficient moisture. The amount of water changes its texture, hardness, and elasticity. Similarly, preferring harder noodles means the noodles contain less water, implying less contact time with water. This indicates that water is the primary factor influencing texture when cooking pearls.
So the main key point in cooking pearls is: Water Movement
We need to hydrate the pearls to change texture and facilitate flavoring.
Utilize the physical phenomenon of osmosis to control the direction of water.
References for many long-established pearl factories in Taiwan:
Mainly using pearls from pearl processing factories; these are for commercial use, not the type made at home. There is a huge difference between the two, which will be detailed in later chapters.
If buying small quantities, you can find vacuum-packed brown pearls, typically in 5kg bags, on major Taiwanese shopping websites or Amazon. When purchasing, check if the vacuum seal is intact, and also check the color for any signs of turning white or moldy. Additionally, if there's a desiccant pack, pay attention to whether the pearls near it have turned white (the desiccant absorbs moisture towards itself, so pearls around it are more likely to get damp). If damp or moldy, the pearls will have changes in color and taste, not to mention hygiene and safety issues.
1.0mm, 1.2mm, 2.0, 2.3, 2.5mm... etc., different sizes. Pearls of different sizes will have different cooking times. Under the condition of maintaining the same texture (softness/hardness), larger pearls require more time. In the following introduction, we will use 2.5mm pearls for explanation.
Cut an opening in the pearl bag, but try not to make it too shallow, as subsequent storage still requires sealing as much as possible. Next, use a large *dry* strainer to sift out the pearl debris. Since pearls are made of tapioca starch + liquid (like snowballs), collisions during transport or handling can create debris that affects appearance, texture, and even cooking quality. After sifting, pour the pearls into a *dry* measuring cup to measure their volume.
The minimum water requirement suggested by the author is at least 6 liters, and the ratio of water to pearls can be 6:1 or even 10:1. More water means higher heat content, which slows down the cooling rate after turning off the heat, similar to the human body (water is crucial for temperature regulation due to its high specific heat). Fill the pot with water and heat it on high power until it reaches a rolling boil.
In low-temperature water, starch decomposes (breaks down into fine particles), not dissolves. Starch is poorly soluble in water but will disperse into very fine particles in cold water (feeling like it's dissolving). Upon subsequent heating, gelatinization occurs, starting around 60°C and peaking at 95°C. This is a problem we try to avoid because it affects osmosis.
So, if the water isn't hot enough when pearls are added, they will decompose into very fine particles due to the low temperature, affecting the viscosity of the water after it boils. The higher the viscosity, the harder it is for water to enter the pearls, making them difficult to cook through.
Similarly, when cooking pasta, Gordon Ramsay adds a large amount of salt to the water, changing its concentration. This slows down the speed at which water enters the pasta, making the cooked pasta less likely to be too soft while also adding a slight salty flavor.
When making pork rib soup, salt is always added last. If salt is added first, the water's concentration becomes higher than the ribs', drawing water out of the ribs due to osmosis, resulting in dry and tough meat.
Adding salt when pickling kimchi also draws out water, another application of osmosis.
Some high-end restaurants use a lot of sugar to extract flavors from fruits, creating a flavored syrup. I once saw a process in a Las Vegas restaurant making strawberry ice cream: chefs put frozen strawberries in a large container with a lot of white sugar, refrigerated it overnight, and then used the resulting sugar water to make ice cream.
With the water boiling vigorously and the heat on medium-high, there will be a lot of hot steam, so be careful. Stir the water in the pot to create a vortex. Pour the pearls in very slowly, preferably from the side. Pay attention to whether the water bubbles disappear; if they do, it means the temperature has dropped, and you should stop adding pearls and wait for the water temperature to recover before continuing.
Therefore, pouring slowly is a crucial step. If the water becomes too thick, you must change the water or use other methods to lower the concentration. Additionally, pouring too quickly can damage the surface of the pearls, affecting the texture.
There was a shop in Houston, Texas, that did good business and cooked a large amount of pearls daily, needing to cook one and a half bags at once (first batch in the morning). One day, the owner complained that the pearls were not cooking through easily and tended to become hard. When I went to inspect, the very first step, adding the pearls, was problematic. The employees were dumping a whole bag of pearls in at once. The water temperature dropped instantly, turning the water misty. In that moment, many pearls started decomposing from the surface layer simultaneously, releasing starch into the water. By the time the water reached boiling again, you could see it becoming increasingly thick. In this situation, water has a harder time entering the pearls, leading to insufficient hydration, difficulty in cooking completely, and pearls that harden quickly once set aside – meaning they age faster. Such finished products have a very short lifespan and basically turn hard upon contact with anything cold.
The process of pouring slowly, combined with the manually created vortex, allows the surface of each pearl to cook instantly upon entering the water. The vortex also whisks the pearls away immediately, preventing them from clumping together when poured continuously, thus avoiding pearls sticking to each other.
After all the pearls have been added, cover the pot and wait for one to three minutes (depending on the heat intensity; higher heat means shorter time) until the water returns to a boil. Then, start timing for 30 minutes (this is a tentative time, adjust based on the process, observations, and tools).
Cover the pot about 90% full, do not seal it completely. This step is also quite important, serving two purposes:
In Northern California, there's a shop called Pxxxe. On weekends, they sell at least 1500 cups a day. One day, the owner called saying the pearls had an inconsistent texture, some hard, some soft. When I rushed over on a Saturday morning, oh my goodness, they were cooking two bags of pearls completely without a lid! Due to buoyancy and the pot being rather narrow, a large portion of the pearls couldn't touch the water during the first 50 minutes of the process. This meant they couldn't absorb enough water, resulting in some pearls being extremely hard.
There's a quite capable shop in Houston. To automate more and save labor, they bought an automatic pearl cooking machine. It had an opening on top and could stir automatically. However, after they started using the machine, the pearl cooking time actually increased, and the pearls looked noticeably smaller. This was due to the pressure issue; because the process was entirely open, there wasn't extra pressure to make the pearls expand, and the water absorption rate slowed down. They quickly abandoned the machine and switched to using large electric cookers, which are also more stable and convenient than a regular stove.
As shown in the right picture, you can use a long spoon to prop the lid, leaving a small gap.
Furthermore, pearls being heated by steam will appear lighter in color.
, If not heated or touched by steam, the pearls will appear black. You can perform a small experiment: the moment you lift the lid, the pearls will instantly change from a light color to a dark color, indicating that opening the lid let the steam escape, and the dark color means the pearls were not being cooked. The first picture shows the pearls just scooped out, the second picture shows the pearls turning dark. Therefore, we can easily determine if the pearls are being cooked by observing the color difference.
This step requires multiple trials to establish the in-store recipe. During food cooking, many factors influence quality. Of course, temperature, time, and ratios, commonly heard factors, definitely have an impact. But there are also many other factors such as: heat power (火力), pot material, local ambient temperature, water quality, pearl moisture content (powder properties also differ; tapioca is a plant, its moisture content varies with season and weather; although factories control it, storage, packaging, etc., all have an impact), different brands of pearls... and many other factors. Therefore, this step requires observing the state of water absorption by the pearls.
As shown in the picture, throughout the cooking process, the pearls continuously absorb water, and their density gradually increases, just like the Titanic, they will eventually sink. If the pearls sink while the heat is still on, the entire pot will scorch and burn. Therefore, this step requires observing when the pearls start to sink in your specific shop (environment). Note down the time when sinking is imminent, conduct multiple experiments, and then establish a Standard Operating Procedure (SOP).
At this point, you can scoop out some pearls and use a transparent container to observe if they are about to sink. Reaching this state is sufficient. The picture on the left indicates that only 10% or less being submerged is enough.
The right picture shows the condition of cooked white pearls. The state on the right is that the pearls are sinking, but in the pot, they might not appear fully sunk. This condition has also met the target.
!Note: Even if they have started sinking, because it's just the beginning, the pearls are not yet heavy enough to stick to the bottom. Therefore, there is some buffer in this operation, and it's unlikely to scorch, but it's still recommended to observe until the first condition (just starting to sink) is met.
Sometimes, some shops add hot water during this process. After adding it, the water density decreases, making the pearls sink more easily. During cooking, starch actually continuously breaks down into the water, so the water's density and concentration increase. This also depends on the initial amount of water; if there's too much water, the pearls might break down too quickly, possibly causing the surface layer to become very soft and mushy. Of course, pouring the pearls in too quickly also causes starch breakdown. On the other hand, if there's too little water, the whole pot becomes very much like a thick soup (羹湯 - gēng tāng). Therefore, using a larger pot and controlling the water ratio between 1:6 and 1:10 is appropriate.
At this point, the pearls have absorbed enough water and are starting to sink. Therefore, continuing to heat will cause burning, whether using an induction cooker or a gas stove. So, the heat needs to be turned off at this time, but simultaneously, we want the temperature of the water in the pot to remain high, and ensure that all the pearls are immersed in the water.
Now, open the lid, stir for about 10 to 15 seconds, ensuring nothing is sticking to the bottom. Then, close the lid, possibly placing a weight on top, and wait for 10-30 seconds (depending on the density of the pearls; if they sink too quickly, don't apply heat for too long - *implies using residual heat*).
Sometimes when cooking things, a lid is placed on top with a weight. There are several reasons for this:
After sealing and covering (potentially with weight), immediately turn off the heat. No further heating is possible at this time because the pearls are now close to sinking, and continued heating risks scorching. A burnt taste will permeate the water, so this must be carefully avoided.
At this stage, the pearls will slowly absorb water. The center part is harder (denser) and requires a longer time to absorb water. This time is related to the factory manufacturing process (granulation - 造粒).
The change in the direction of water movement due to different concentrations is a physical phenomenon and a method constantly used during the pearl cooking process. Below is a simple explanation of the osmosis phenomenon:
The following procedure is very simple. If your pot is large enough and contains enough water, it's just a matter of waiting + checking.
I have encountered many shops where the process of cooking pearls is very laborious, constantly stirring with a spoon, opening the lid frequently, essentially wasting one person's labor. In reality, if you understand the principles, cooking pearls becomes much simpler. Looking at the steps so far, the actual manual operations needed are only pouring the pearls, boiling the water, covering the pot, and checking. The total time for these actions doesn't need to exceed 5 minutes (though boiling water certainly takes time, calculable by ΔH = msΔT, which will be mentioned later). Therefore, the key to cooking pearls well is understanding the principle of osmosis.
During this step, you can check once every 30 minutes. It is recommended not to check too frequently, as the pearls are slowly absorbing water, and opening the lid or checking will lower the pot's internal temperature and slightly reduce the pressure. Just check at the designated times.
Observe the color of the pearls. This observation is somewhat difficult, as most black pearls quickly turn black upon cooling. You will need to use a flashlight (a phone's flashlight works) to observe. The main goal is to observe the hydration status throughout the pearl. After absorbing water, the pearl will become transparent with a black hue and translucent. The part that hasn't absorbed water will be light brown but opaque. So, scoop out the pearls and use a flashlight to assess the progress.
The image on the right shows that starch becomes translucent after absorbing water. This picture uses white pearls as an example, clearly showing the difference in the pearls themselves based on varying degrees of water absorption.
Therefore, to make brown sugar pearls (黑糖珍珠), it is even more crucial to increase the proportion of water absorbed by the pearls, so that the entire pearl tastes flavorful.
Next, during the soaking process, you need to observe the color of the pearls periodically. Because they become translucent when hydrated and remain opaque when not, you can proceed to the next step once they reach your desired level of hydration.
There are two images here. The upper part of the first image shows some parts with white centers (白心 - bái xīn). A white center indicates that it will harden when cold, similar to the texture of cold white rice (somewhat like taro balls - 芋圓, but less powdery). Simultaneously, it also means the white center part is less likely to absorb flavor.
The image below shows that almost all pearls have absorbed sufficient water. This is a very good state, but it may not necessarily match the preference of Taiwanese people, some of whom prefer firmer pearls. However, from an international perspective (non-Asian regions), people prefer chewy (Q) but dislike hard textures. In many international cuisines, it's less common to add such non-fruit, hard items to beverages. Therefore, popping boba (爆爆珠 - bào bào zhū) is actually very popular because it's like a fun juice ball. Furthermore, in some culinary and alcoholic dessert applications, products equivalent to popping boba are quite common. (Popping boba is a combination of sodium alginate and calcium lactate, which will be provided later).
Once the pearls reach this state, proceed to the next step.
After completing the previous step, the pearls need to be rinsed. However, this is not necessary for pearls intended for Brown Sugar Milk Tea (黑糖撞奶 - hēitáng zhuàng nǎi, literally "brown sugar hit milk").
How to prevent scallion oil noodles or dry noodles from clumping (不坨 - bù tuó): When noodles are finished cooking, the pores on their surface are still open. To some extent, the noodle body also continuously releases starchy water. When this water, carrying starch, is released into the noodle bowl and gradually cools down, it acts like glue due to the property of starch hardening and becoming sticky when cold. Thus, the noodles clump and stick together. Therefore, after cooking, instantly plunging the noodles into cold water rapidly lowers the temperature. At this point, the pores shrink, reducing the release of starchy water from the noodle body. Then, return the noodles to the pot of hot water to reheat them. By now, the pores have closed and sealed (the starchy water acted like glue when cold), so they won't reopen significantly even upon reheating.
This principle is similar to a facial spa: cold water shrinks pores, hot water opens them. However, facial pores don't have starchy water (glue), so they will reopen again with temperature changes.
Once, during an inspection of a tea shop in Houston, the pearls I tasted had a sewage-like smell (水溝味 - shuǐ gōu wèi) because the water was unclean. Typically, shop owners might assume that boiling water makes it safe to drink. This might be true regarding microbes, but many substances, like various ions (even temporary hardness requires boiling for some time to remove Ca, Mg), do not disappear just because the water is boiled. Therefore, odors won't vanish with boiling and will get into the ingredients. Upon inquiry, it was confirmed that the water filter was not operational (due to plumbing issues), consequently affecting the quality of all products in the shop.
A customer who runs a Sports Bar was using frozen lemon juice from Pingtung, Taiwan, to mix drinks. However, the drinks had a metallic taste. A TDS meter test yielded a reading of 1200 ppm. Later, they bought distilled water (0 ppm) and prepared the drinks the same way, and the problem disappeared. (Even the ice cubes were problematic).
This is the reverse of the pearl cooking process. During cooking, we sent water *into* the pearls, making them full of water like a cucumber. Now, we add crystalline sugar.
The sugar creates a huge concentration difference, causing osmosis to occur. This is why we use powdered or crystalline sugar, as these forms can achieve over 99% sweetness concentration, making it the most efficient method. (Many shops use fructose or other liquid sugars for flavoring, ultimately resulting in a lot of sugar being poured down their sinks.)
When the pearls and the sugar liquid reach equilibrium, the liquid flows evenly between the pearls and the sugar water. At this point, simply adding a small amount of flavorings like "honey" or "maple syrup", or other preferred seasonings, into the liquid will allow the entire pearl to be filled with flavor. Generally, for half a bag of pearls (2 liters), adding 100ml of honey for flavoring is sufficient. This is somewhat like seasoning cold-tossed cucumber salad: first use 3% salt to draw out the cucumber's internal water and reach equilibrium, then add small amounts of chili, garlic, etc.; these flavors will dissolve in the water and be carried to every corner (sometimes adding too much salt causes excessive water loss from the cucumber; in this case, no matter how you season it, because the cucumber has too little water, the flavor struggles to penetrate, resulting in a feeling of seasoned surface but raw inside).
So, at this stage, you can choose your favorite flavors to add to the pearls, because any flavor that can dissolve in water can diffuse into every pearl.
There are many ways to store pearls. Some people prefer to keep them warm, while others like to store them in plastic containers. Regardless, there are a few things to pay attention to:
Storage typically isn't completely airtight, meaning that water will inevitably evaporate over time. Consequently, the concentration of the liquid preserving the pearls will inevitably become higher. In drier regions, the concentration may need adjustment after about an hour, which means adding a little water and re-measuring the TDS to between 50-55. If you accidentally add too much water, you can stir, pour out the excess water, and add an appropriate amount of sugar.
This adjustment step needs to be repeated approximately every hour. This helps control the softness and hardness of the pearls and can extend their lifespan to 8 hours or even longer. However, food hygiene issues still need attention; it's recommended to keep them covered and use them within 6 hours.
首先, 讓我們從名字著手。"珍珠奶茶"這名字體現了這款飲料的三個重要組成部分: "珍珠"——實則指的是經過食品工廠加工處理的木薯粉球, “奶”--通常為奶精或鮮奶, 根據脂肪的不同給飲料造成不同的厚度, 而”茶”則多為紅茶、綠茶以及烏龍茶, 根據發酵程度以及加工方式的不同造成不同的口感, 另外還有一個極為重要的元素就是糖。
主要提供任何對珍珠奶茶有興趣的人提供資訊, 根據作者過往的經驗, 將生產、製作直至調配等等的過程用科學的角度去說明, 讓讀者能準確地學習到正確的方式, 突破盲點全新的用不同角度去理解這門學問。另外此書也會結合原物料的供應商、以及各種設備的介紹, 讓您能夠輕易的得到原物料資訊。有別於一般的食譜, 我們將隨著此書的內容學會穩定控制食材以及口味並且增加創新的可能。
『這邊要擺什麼, 一個Slogan?』
珍珠奶茶的起源可以追溯到1980年代的台灣, 當時的飲料店開始將奶茶和粉圓結合, 為了提升飲料的口感和視覺吸引力, 創造出了這種獨特的飲品。短短幾年內, 珍珠奶茶就在台灣大受歡迎, 並逐漸傳播到全世界, 無論是在亞洲的其他地區, 還是在歐美、澳洲, 都能見到它的身影。
然而, 珍珠奶茶的魅力, 遠遠超過它作為一種甜點的性質。珍珠奶茶不僅是一種飲品, 它更是一種文化現象, 象徵著台灣的創新精神和美食文化。它的出現, 打破了傳統茶飲的規範, 讓人們看到茶飲也可以有各種創新的可能。珍珠奶茶已成為台灣的代表性文化象徵, 並在全球各地獲得認同, 深受各年齡層愛好者的喜愛。
在本文中, 我們將探索珍珠奶茶的各個層面, 從它的歷史、製作過程、原料, 到各種風味變化, 以及它如何影響和改變了我們的飲食文化。讓我們一同揭開這個甜蜜瑰寶的神秘面紗, 深入探索珍珠奶茶的世界。
這本文的內容經由各個參考資料以及經驗之分享, 掃描QR code可觀看影片說明。


首先, 珍珠的成分為樹薯澱粉, 為眾多澱粉中的一種, 相比地瓜粉、太白粉有些許不同。
以下為探討不同澱粉對加熱後之產品硬度(Hardness)、彈性(Springiness)、膠性(Gumminess)、咀嚼性(Chewiness)之差異(參考文獻:):
| Formula | Hardness (g) | Springiness | Gumminess (g) | Chewiness (g) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tapioca starch 100% | 122.6±4.0c | 1.00±0.02a | 94.5±1.9c | 94.3±1.8c |
| Sweet potato starch 100% | 174.8±12.3b | 0.97±0.03a | 132.0±11.7b | 127.9±13.3b |
| Potato starch 100% | 236.4±12.9a | 0.97±0.03a | 162.0±6.2a | 157.8±7.3a |
| Values are mean±SD, n=5 Different letters(a-c) in the same column indicate significant difference (p<0.05) | ||||
馬鈴薯澱粉為原料之樣品硬度最高, 其值為236.4g, 其次為地瓜澱粉(174.8g), 硬度最低為樹薯澱粉(122.6g); 各澱粉之彈性值沒有顯著性差異(p>0.05); 膠性及咀嚼度測試也以馬鈴薯澱粉為最高, 地瓜澱粉次之, 最低為樹薯澱粉。
另外各個澱粉都仍然具有澱粉的共通性質, 例如: 澱粉可於冷水中分解, 加熱後會稠化, 冷的時候變硬、熱得時候變軟... 等等的物理特性, 這些性質與製作過程息息相關, 務必要將這些性質熟記方可控制穩定度。
這是一個很困難的問題, 相信許多人給出的答案會眾說紛紜, 同樣的問題可以套用在拉麵, 如果將問題改成煮麵的目的是什麼? 那我相信會有更多人能回答出正確且完整的解釋。
營養素有分很多種, 蛋白質、脂肪、醣類、維生素、礦物質、水等。我們在烹飪的過程是將食物轉化成我們想要的狀態, 例如煎牛排, 除了增加風味外, 用高溫將一些細菌、寄生蟲給殺死, 同時也因為溫度會讓蛋白質變性(跟煎蛋一樣), 造成口感上、顏色上的不同, 讓人體易吸收, 至於蛋白質的分級以及各個溫度下的變化都有對應的實驗以及文獻有說明, 這邊就不多作闡述。
回到珍珠, 珍珠為澱粉的一種, 就跟麵或飯一樣。所以我們可以從日常生活中的煮飯跟煮麵來理解煮珍珠的目的。從煮飯來說, 米飯在烹煮的過程中會開始吸水, 體積會膨脹同時密度也會變大, 密度變大造成沈底(沈底後加熱會鍋巴燒焦, 珍珠也是), 當吸越多水, 飯體就會越軟, 如果吸太多的水, 則米飯就變成稀飯, 所以煮澱粉類的東西, 無外乎就是用水去烹煮並讓澱粉吸足水份, 水份的多寡會改變其質地, 硬度與彈性, 同理喜歡吃硬一點的麵也就代表麵裡面的水較少, 也就是與水接觸的時間較少, 這也就代表水在烹煮珍珠的時候是影響質地的最主要因素。
所以煮珍珠最主要的關鍵點就在於: 水的移動
我們需要將珍珠充水用以改變口感以及方便調味。
利用滲透壓的物理現象控制水的方向
台灣有許多歷史悠久的珍珠工廠參考
以珍珠加工廠之珍珠為主, 此為營業用並非自己在家裡做的那種, 兩者有巨大的差異, 將於後面章節寫出。
如果買小量的可以到台灣各大購物網站或是Amazon上可以找到真空包裝、一般為5Kg裝的棕色珍珠。購買時要確認真空是否有洩漏, 顏色上也要注意不要變白發霉, 此外有乾燥包的必須要注意乾燥包附近是否有珍珠發白(乾燥包會將水氣往同個方向吸, 因此乾燥包周圍的珍珠有較高的機會受潮), 如果受潮或是發霉, 珍珠將會有顏色口味上的變化, 更不用說衛生安全問題了。
1.0mm, 1.2mm, 2.0, 2.3, 2.5.. 等不同大小。不同大小的珍珠烹煮的時間會有差異, 在維持相同口感(軟硬)的條件下, 越大的珍珠需要更多的時間, 在接下來的介紹, 我們選擇2.5mm提供說明。
將珍珠包剪開一個口, 但盡量太淺, 因為後續保存還是要盡可能密封。接著要用乾燥的大濾網篩過珍珠的碎屑, 因為珍珠為樹薯澱粉+液體製成, 像是雪球這樣, 因此在碰撞的過程或是運輸的過程會產生碎屑影響觀感、口感甚至會影響煮的品質。過濾完後, 再將珍珠倒入乾燥的量杯測量體積有多少。
最低水量要求作者建議要至少6公升, 並且與珍珠的比例可以達到6:1 甚至是10:1也可以, 越多的水, 熱含量越高, 可以在關火後減緩降溫的速度, 跟人體很像(水是調節溫度的重要物質, 因為水的比熱非常高)。將水裝置鍋中全力加熱至沸騰。
在溫度低的水裡會分解, 並非溶解, 澱粉是難溶於水的, 但是會在冷水裡會分解成非常細小的顆粒(感覺像是融化了), 而後開始加熱後會產生糊化的效果, 約60度C開始, 95度C時達到最高峰, 這是我們要盡量避免的問題, 因為會影響滲透壓。
所以當水不夠熱的時候, 丟進去的珍珠會因為溫度不到分解成非常小的顆粒, 進而影響到沸騰後水的稠度, 當稠度越高, 水越難進入珍珠, 珍珠越難煮透。
同理, 煮義大利麵的時候, Gordan Ramsey 會在水裡投入大量的鹽改變水的濃度, 這可以slow down水進入麵條的速度, 這樣煮出來的麵不容易過軟同時還帶有一點鹹味。
煮排骨湯時鹽巴都是最後加, 因為如果先加了鹽巴, 水的濃度會大於排骨本身的濃度, 因此會將排骨裡面的水吸出來, 導致排骨乾柴。
醃泡菜的時候加鹽巴也是會吸水, 同樣也是滲透壓的應用。
有些高級餐廳會用一堆糖去析出水果的味道, 變成一種風味糖漿, 曾經我有看過在Las Vegas餐廳裡面製作草莓冰淇淋的過程, 廚師們將冷凍草莓裝在一個大桶子裡加入非常多的白糖, 放冰箱隔夜後再將糖水取出製作冰淇淋。
在水非常滾的狀況下並開中大火, 這時水蒸氣會很多很燙需要注意安全。攪拌鍋中水形成漩渦。用非常慢的速度慢慢倒珍珠, 從側邊下料最好。請注意水的泡泡是否消失, 泡泡消失的話代表溫度降低, 需要停止下料等待水溫回來再下。
因此慢慢倒入是非常關鍵的一個步驟, 當水變得過稠的時候, 必須要用換水等方式才有辦法降低水的濃度, 此外倒的太快也會讓珍珠表面損傷進而影響口感。
有一家在德州休士頓的店, 因為生意不錯, 每天煮的珍珠量比較多, 需要做到一包半一次(早上第一次), 有天老闆反應珍珠煮不透容易發硬, 當我過去檢視的時候, 第一個步驟下料就是有問題的, 員工們一次下一全部一包的珍珠, 此時水的溫度瞬間下降, 出現霧霧的顏色, 這一瞬間許多珍珠從表層同時分解, 澱粉已經進去了水裡, 等到溫度達到沸騰, 就可以發現水越來越稠, 因此這種狀況下水會比較難進入到珍珠裡面, 從而導致吸水不足, 不容易完成, 珍珠擺一下就硬了, 也就是老化的比較快, 這樣的成品壽命非常短, 基本上碰到冰的東西就硬了。
慢慢倒的過程, 加上手動做出的漩渦, 可以讓每一粒珍珠一入水表層直接煮熟, 而且漩渦能把珍珠瞬間帶走, 這樣連續倒的時候不會疊在一起, 這樣珍珠不會彼此黏住。
等到全部都倒完後蓋上蓋子, 等待一分鐘至三分鐘(取決於火力大小, 越大的火時間越短)直至再次沸騰後開始計時30分鐘(暫定的時間, 根據其過程、現象、工具改變時間)。
將蓋子蓋上9分滿, 不可完全密封, 此步驟也是相當重要, 蓋蓋子的目的有兩個:
在北加州有一家店叫做Pxxxe, 該店週末的時候每天會販賣至少1500杯以上, 有一天老闆娘打來說珍珠吃起來有一些硬、有一些軟, 口感非常不平均, 在週六早上趕過去一看, 我的媽媽咪呀, 兩包珍珠煮起來完全不上蓋子, 因為浮力的問題, 再加上鍋子偏窄, 有一大部分的珍珠在前面50分鐘的過程碰不到水, 這樣跟本沒半法吸足水份, 因此造成部分的珍珠非常的硬。
有一家蠻厲害的店在Houston, 他們為了要更自動化節省人力, 買了一台機台是自動煮珍珠機, 上面有開口、可以自動攪拌, 但是當他們使用該機台後, 煮珍珠的時間卻延長了, 而且珍珠看起來小了不少, 這也就是因為壓力的問題, 因為整個過程都是開口的, 因此沒有更多的壓力讓珍珠變大顆, 吸水的速度也變慢了, 很快的他們放棄了該機台轉而使用大型電鍋做, 比起一般火爐, 電鍋也較穩定且方便。
如右圖, 可利用長的湯匙卡住留個小縫。
此外, 珍珠在有被水蒸氣加熱的狀態會顯現出較淡的顏色。
, 如果沒有被加熱或碰到水蒸氣, 珍珠會呈現黑色, 此時可以做一個小實驗, 當把蓋子掀開的瞬間, 珍珠會馬上從淡的顏色變成深色, 就代表打開蓋子讓水氣消失了, 變成深的顏色也就代表珍珠並沒有被煮到。從第一張圖可以看到剛把珍珠撈出來, 第二張圖就是珍珠變深色了, 因此我們可以用很簡單的方式判斷珍珠有沒有被煮到, 就是顏色差異。
此步驟需要經過多次實作才能設定店內的recipe, 食物的烹煮過程中, 影響品質的因素有非常多種, 當然溫度、時間、比例、這些一般常聽到的肯定影響, 但還有其他諸多因素例如: 火力(power)、鍋子材質、當地氣溫、水質、珍珠的含水(粉性也會不同, 木薯是植物, 不同季節天氣有不同的含水量, 雖然工廠會控制, 但保存、包裝等等的皆有影響)、不同品牌的珍珠...等諸多因素, 因此這個步驟是需要去觀察珍珠吸水的狀況。
如圖所示, 在整個煮的過程中, 珍珠不停的吸水, 密度一點點的上升, 就跟鐵達尼號一樣, 會沉底的, 如果珍珠下沉了但火還是開的話, 整鍋會糊掉焦掉, 因此這個步驟需要去觀察在您的店(環境)內, 珍珠什麼時候會開始要下沉, 將即將下沉的時間記下來多次實驗後, 方可訂出一套SOP。
此時可以撈出珍珠, 並用一個透明的容器觀察是否有即將下沉, 達到此狀況即可。圖片左邊代表只有10%或以下在水下即可。
右圖為白珍珠煮起來的狀況, 右邊的狀況是珍珠是下沉的, 但在鍋子裡面看起來沒有完全下沉, 此種狀況也已達標。
!注意: 即使已經下沉, 因為是剛開始沉底, 此時珍珠還沒有重到貼底, 因此這個操作會有緩衝不太會焦, 但仍然建議觀察到第一種狀況即可。
有時候一些店家會在這個過程加入一些熱水, 加入之後因為水的密度降低, 珍珠會更容易沉下去。在煮的過程澱粉其實會一直分解到水裡, 因此水的密度濃度會增加, 這也會取決於初始水量的多寡, 如果太多水, 珍珠分解的速度會太快, 可能會造成表層非常軟爛, 當然倒入珍珠過快也會產生澱粉分解, 另外水太少的話, 整鍋會非常像濃稠的羹湯, 因此鍋子大一點, 水控制在1:6至10:1即可。
此時珍珠已經吸到了足夠的水量會開始沉底了, 因此持續加熱會燒焦, 無論是電磁爐還是火爐, 所以這個時候需要關火, 但同時也希望整鍋水的溫度維持高檔, 並且確定整鍋珍珠都浸泡在水裡。
此時, 打開蓋子, 攪拌一下10至15秒, 確認沒有任何黏底即可。接著, 蓋上蓋子, 上面可壓重物, 等待10-30秒(取決於珍珠的密度, 如果沉太快就不要加熱太久)。
有些時候烹煮東西的時候會上蓋壓重物, 其原因有幾點:
當密封加蓋後, 就立即將火關掉。此時無法再加熱了, 因為此時的珍珠已經接近沉底, 再繼續加熱恐會燒焦, 燒焦後整個水都會有糊味, 因此必須小心此事的發生。
此時的珍珠會慢慢地吸水, 中心的部分較為硬(較密), 吸水的時間要比較長, 此時間與工廠製程有關(造粒)。
因濃度不同而造成水移動的方向改變, 這是一個物理現象, 也是煮珍珠過程中不停使用的方法。以下簡單說明滲透壓的現象:
接下來的流程非常簡單, 當你的鍋子夠大、裝的水夠多, 此時就是等待+檢查。
我碰過非常多的店家, 在煮珍珠的過程中非常的辛苦, 拿著湯匙攪啊攪, 沒事開個蓋子不停地翻滾, 直接浪費掉了一個人力, 其實只要理解原理, 煮珍珠會變得簡單很多, 光看到目前的步驟, 真正需要人力操作的也就只有倒下珍珠、煮水、蓋蓋子、檢查, 前後時間總和不需要5分鐘(如果熱水要煮滾則時間一定很久, 根據 ΔH = msΔT 可以計算滾水時間, 後續會提及)。因此想要把珍珠煮好的重點是理解滲透的原理。
此步驟每30分鐘可以去觀察一次, 建議頻率不需太高, 因為珍珠正慢慢的吸水, 打開蓋子或是觀察會讓鍋內溫度降低, 壓力也會稍微降低, 只要在指定的時間過去觀察即可。
觀察珍珠的顏色, 此觀察有點難度, 大部分的黑珍珠預冷會迅速變成黑色, 需要用到手電筒(手機的也行)去觀察, 主要觀察整顆吸水的狀態, 吸水後珍珠會變成透明帶黑色且透光, 沒吸到水的部分會是淡棕色但不透光, 所以將珍珠撈起後用手電筒照可判斷進度。
右圖可看出澱粉吸水後會成透光的狀態, 圖片是以白珍珠作為示範, 可看出不同吸水程度上珍珠本身的差異。
因此要做黑糖珍珠更務必要將珍珠吸水的比例提高, 這樣才會讓整個珍珠吃起來非常有味道。
接著, 在浸泡的過程中需要每隔一段時間去觀察珍珠的顏色, 因為吸了水會透光、沒吸水不會, 因此觀察到你想要的程度就可以進行下一個步驟了。
這邊有兩個圖, 第一個圖上半部分可以看到有些白心的部分, 只要是白心, 就代表遇冷會變硬, 偏向白飯遇冷的口感(有點類似芋圓但是沒那麼粉)。同時, 也代表白心的部分比較不容易入味。
下圖可以看出幾乎所有珍珠都已經吸足了水份, 這個是非常好的狀態, 但這不一定符合台灣人的口感, 有些人喜歡珍珠偏硬, 但以國外來看(非亞洲地區), 他們喜歡Q但不喜歡硬, 因為在各國飲食裡面, 比較少會在飲料內加入這種非水果又硬的東西, 所以在口感上爆爆珠反而很受歡迎, 因為就像是一個很有趣的果汁球, 再者, 在一些烹飪、酒類的甜點裡面, 等同於爆爆珠的產品也是很常見的。(爆爆珠是海藻酸鈉根乳酸鈣的結合, 後續會提供)。
當珍珠到此狀況後, 進行下一個步驟。
完成上一步驟後, 要將珍珠做清洗。但如果做黑糖撞奶的珍珠則不需要。
煮蔥油拌麵、乾麵不坨怎麼用: 當煮完麵的時候, 面表層的孔隙仍然是開口的, 某種程度上麵體也會不停地釋放澱粉水, 當這些水帶著澱粉在麵碗裡面被釋放出來後, 加上漸漸降溫, 根據澱粉遇冷變硬變黏的特性很像膠水, 所以麵會坨, 會黏在一起。因此在煮完後, 瞬間將麵體丟至冷水內迅速將溫, 此時孔隙會縮起來, 並且減少澱粉水從麵體內析出, 此時再將麵體丟回去熱水的鍋內再次加熱, 這時候孔隙已經閉起來也黏住了(澱粉水遇冷會黏住), 因此即使再次加熱也不會再次打開了。
此原理類似臉部Spa原理, 冷水孔隙縮小、熱水孔隙變大。但臉上的毛細孔不會有澱粉水(膠水)所以縮小後還是會因為溫度不同再次打開。
有一次檢驗Houston茶店時, 吃到的珍珠有一個水溝味, 因為水是不乾淨的, 一般店家老闆會認為水煮過就可以喝了, 這可能是對的, 但是很多東西並不是煮了就會不見例如各種離子(暫時性硬水也是要煮一陣子才能去掉Ca Mg), 因此味道的部分不會因為煮滾了而消失, 會跑到食材裡面的。當時詢問後確實濾水器沒有作業(管線問題), 因此整家店所有產品品質就被影響了。
有一個開Sport Bar的客人使用著台灣屏東冷凍檸檬原汁調配飲品, 結果一喝起來有一股金屬味, 經過TDS meter檢測得到 1200ppm的數據, 後來去買了蒸餾水(0 ppm)回來用同樣的方式調配就沒有問題了。(連冰塊都有問題)
跟煮珍珠的過程是相反的, 煮的過程我們將水送到珍珠裡面, 讓珍珠跟小黃瓜一樣充滿水份, 這時候我們加入晶體狀的糖。
糖就可以製造一個巨大的濃度差異, 使得滲透作用發生, 這也是為什麼我們要用粉末或晶體狀糖的原因, 因為這些晶體糖可以提高99%以上的甜度, 因此是最有效率的做法。(很多店家使用果糖或其他液態糖做調味, 最後的結果是他們的洗手台會倒掉很多糖。)
當珍珠跟糖液產生的平衡, 此時液體會在珍珠與糖水間平均的流動, 這時候只要在液體裡面加入少量例如”蜂蜜”、”楓糖”, 等喜歡的調味即可讓整個珍珠充滿味道, 一般來說煮半包珍珠(2公升)可以加100ml的蜂蜜去調味即可。這有點像是調味涼拌小黃瓜, 先用3%的鹽巴讓小黃瓜內部的水分析出達到平衡, 之後加入少量的辣椒、大蒜這些味道就會溶在水裡面並帶到任何角落(有時候加了太多鹽巴會讓小黃瓜水分析出太多, 這時候不管怎麼調味, 因為小黃瓜水太少了, 味道很難進去, 就會發現表層有味道但裡面生生的感覺)。
所以這時可以挑選喜歡的味道去加到珍珠裡面, 因為任何味道只要能溶在水裡就可以擴散到每粒珍珠。
保存的方式有很多中, 有些人喜歡保溫, 有些人喜歡擺在塑膠容器, 不外乎有幾件事情要注意的:
保存通常不會完全避密隔絕空氣, 也就意味著隨著時間的流逝水分一定會蒸發, 因此保存珍珠液體的濃度勢必會變更濃, 在一些地區比較乾操, 約一小時後就必須調整濃度也就是加一點水, 並且再度測量TDS至50-55之間, 如果不小心加太多水, 可以攪拌後將水倒出並加入適量的糖即可。
這個步驟每過一小時需不停的重複, 可以控制珍珠的軟硬程度並且可以延長珍珠的壽命至8小時甚至更久, 但食品衛生的問題仍需注意, 建議加蓋保存並在6小時之內使用完畢。
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